That Passport Life with Kevin McCullough

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Farewell To Fireman: NYC Food Legend

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Some dinners become memories that outlive the night they were served. They linger in stories told years later — the warmth of the lights, the laughter echoing off the glass, the small rituals of friendship shared over a meal.

Shelly Fireman gave New York those kinds of dinners.

His passing at ninety-three leaves more than empty tables; it leaves a silence in the hum of a city that has always fed its spirit as eagerly as its stomach.

For ten straight years, the dinner before the Getty Irish Christmas concert at Carnegie Hall meant one thing: Redeye Grill. The same seats, the same glow of the bar, the same pre-show excitement as people drifted in from the cold. The waiters didn’t know our names — but somehow, the rhythm of the place made us feel known anyway. The food arrived like music, timed perfectly to the conversation. That was the magic of Shelly Fireman: he built rooms that felt alive before you ever took a bite.

When first-time visitors came to town, I’d always take them to the Brooklyn Diner. It’s impossible to forget the moment someone meets that fifteen-bite hot dog — equal parts spectacle and nostalgia. It’s a little ridiculous and completely wonderful, just like the city itself. Fireman had a knack for turning something familiar into an experience you couldn’t get anywhere else.

And then there was Bond 45. My favorite. That impossibly thin, flaky pepperoni pizza glazed with hot honey — one of the city’s best-kept open secrets. Shelly used to joke that he “hired a guy to steal the recipe.” The line tells you everything about him: mischievous, confident, endlessly curious. His Negronis were legendary too — balanced with the same precision as his menus.

Born in the Bronx, Fireman called himself “Italian” because he loved Italy’s food and art so much. He opened his first bagel shop in 1963, and over time, built the Fireman Hospitality Group, now spanning eight Manhattan eateries and still generating more than ninety million dollars a year. But his true art wasn’t in expansion — it was in understanding people.

He didn’t chase trends; he created classics. Trattoria dell’Arte, Café Fiorello, Redeye Grill, Bond 45 — each sat strategically near New York’s cultural landmarks: Lincoln Center, Carnegie Hall, Broadway. He understood that dining wasn’t separate from the arts — it was part of the same performance. When the curtain fell or the encore ended, his restaurants kept the night alive.

And he was an artist in every sense of the word. His walls were filled with whimsy and wit: Milton Glaser’s giant nose and lips at Trattoria, his own bronze sculptures at Bond 45, collaborations with Peter Max and Red Grooms. His spaces never whispered; they grinned.

Even into his nineties, Shelly never stopped creating. This year, at ninety-three, he opened Paris Bar at Le Méridien on West 57th. That spirit — to keep building, to keep welcoming — is what travelers everywhere recognize instantly. It’s the soul of discovery.

So thank you, Shelly — for the hot honey, the ravioli, and the ritual of a good meal before the music begins.

For making newcomers feel like insiders.

For teaching us that food isn’t just sustenance — it’s storytelling.

You didn’t just feed New York. You nourished its heartbeat.

And somewhere in that glow between Broadway and Carnegie, your tables are still full.

 

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